Snoo's kitchen

The last full day in Kyoto was inspirational, and also incredibly hot. Bell decided to chill and planned to visit some art galleries while Bert and I went on a guided cycle around the northwest of Kyoto. We met Annie, our guide, who spoke good English and was very knowledgeable. She had lived in Bournemouth for six months, and also in Hastings. Not sure what impression that would have left her with the English way of life but being born in Bournemouth, I am a big fan of it. She had also been a school teacher and lived in Kobe – so commuted an hour and a half to run cycling trips around Kyoto. I had started to sweat soon after leaving our temple home. By the time we reached the Golden Pavilion in Kinkakuji, I was regretting my choice of skort as it seemed to be acting as a double layer of clothing when one layer would be too much. The Golden Pavilion was gorgeous – if a little ostentatious – but a crazy monk who was said to dislike perfection had burned it down many years ago, and had been captured. The crazy monk’s mum was so ashamed she killed herself. Annie was full of these types of stories – some were more uplifting…

One other interesting fact was that there are 210m people have registered religious beliefs in Japan. So with a population of 120m, that means 90m people have registered two religious beliefs – Shinto and Buddhism. Annie explained that many Japanese follow Shintoism for weddings, Buddhism for funerals, and some even celebrate Christmas. Sounds fine with me! Leaving the Golden Pavilion, we set off for Ryoanji, also known as the Zen temple. Going from gold to rocks was very zen. The rock garden is amazing and, despite the crowds, we were able to sit and look at the garden for quite a while. It is a walled rectangle, 25m x 10m, and filled with beautifully raked white gravel, among which stand 15 stones of various shapes and sizes. The stones are place in such a way that you can’t see them all at the same time – which could be interpreted as no one is able to reach perfection. Other interpretations are that the stones represent a mother tiger leading her cubs across the water. To me, I just thought it looked fab and the raking was superb. Bert reckoned he was able to see all 15 stones so I guess he has reached perfection! I might try and recreate something similar back home…

Passing through the temple, Annie highlighted a small spout of water pouring into a big square hole. On closer inspection, we saw that each side of the hole had different kanji, and Annie explained that when taken together it meant ‘I learn only to be contented’. That’ll do me.

Annie produced scarves for our necks which she had soaked in freezing cold water and they were just the ticket. Then she said we had to cycle 45 minutes to the next place. I really struggled. I have never felt so hot – it was worse than Nepal and I was a the darkest shade of crimson I have ever been. There was no escape. We stopped halfway at a lake and all I wanted to do was jump in. But it seems like the Japanese don’t do jumping in lakes. Instead, we stopped by a vending machine and got some cold drinks, found a tiny bit of shade by the lake, and rested for about 10 minutes. The next part of the ride was through paddy fields and allotments, although seeing clearly through a sea of sweat was hard and I was just concentrating on the bumpy road and feeling hot. But I knew we were heading for the bamboo forest which to mean sounded cool and refreshing. Before (too) long, we hit a shady forest but then had to push our bikes uphill to the bike park. Everything I was wearing felt so uncomfortable. We walked down a path through some very tall bamboo but there was no air or wind, and just loads of other tourists. I was a bit disappointed with the bamboo forests. I had expected something bigger and perhaps some lovely sounds as the wind blew through the bamboo. 

Exhausted, we stumbled into the nearest aircon cafe which had a buffet lunch. It took me a good half hour to regain human form. We then sat looking at the togetsukyo bridge for a while and decided to go to the monkey park. However, it was a 30-minute hike up a mountain and frankly, I didn’t have any energy left, so we got the bus home. 

Our last night mirrored our first night as it started to rain. Luckily no typhoon and we arrived at the lovely tempura place and had yet another delicious meal. The only downside to the restaurant is that it plays four Beatles songs over and over and over. So that was two nights of hearing the same songs maybe 16 times – the staff must go crazy – they do seem to shout a lot when people walk in, walk out and other random times… but the tempura is amazing. 

We are back in Tokyo now – final dash round the shops and some last minute eating. Just off to buy another suitcase as I seemed to have bought a lot of rice crackers 😂. 

Husband survived the box and texted when he was getting on the plane. He had had to give up the bulldog sauce at customs, but the trainers got through fine. I woke early and the kids carried on sleeping so I went for an early morning walk round the block. It was already too hot at 8am. 

We decided to cycle to the shrine of 10,000 red gates which was 35 minutes away. So, after another matcha latte tea and sweets, we set off in the now very hot sun. The temple provides bikes free of charge- which is amazing as not much is few of charge in Japan. We managed to find a lovely path along the river – saw loads of heron. Then we had to detour a bit as the path was closed – and we stopped in frequent shady bits just to cool off and take on more water. By the time we arrived at the shrine, I was the colour of the red gates (not quite the deep magenta of the final photo we had taken in Nepal, but I close second). We were all suffering. We bought two more umbrellas to provide some shade and locked up the bikes. It was heaving with tourists and even hotter. We dripped our way to the first set of gates and then as we walked on, the air got slightly less humid and the shade provided by the gates provided a tiny amount of relief. 

It was awesome but I would like to go back in mid-winter.

We then sat for a good hour in a little restaurant in the temple grounds and ate shaved ice and cucumber rolls. The perfect antidote.

Fully rested and back to normal colour, we cycled home via the buddhists temple which has 1001 buddhas – this was awesome. No photos were allowed and you have to go if you are ever in Kyoto. Bell tried her luck at the fortune kiosk but yet again came up with an unfortunate fortune. Third time lucky, maybe!

It had been 24 hours since a burger, so me and Bert went to Mos burger which didn’t match Lucky Pierrot but still got the ok  – so much so that Bert ordered another one. 

Bell and I popped out for tempura later – which was so good. It’s still weird sitting in a restaurant with things in the table you aren’t sure what to do with, and very little understanding. When the waitress turned up with an enormous bowl of edamame beans and a plastic glove, I was confused. Her hand gestures indicated I had to put the glove on and scoop up as much of the edamame beans as I could. So I did. And she seemed ok with that. The tempura was delicious – we ordered a second round and more beers then staggered home in the heat to fall asleep.

Last full day in Kyoto tomorrow. And I am over halfway through my sabbatical. Nooooo!!

The typhoon had blown itself out and it was bright and sunny when I woke up. Made lots of cups of tea and then set off for breakfast. I can safely say that the matcha latte I chose was the best drink I have had since arriving in Kyoto. I chose it because of the picture and the fact that it mentioned almond milk. Here’s my picture and make up your own mind if you would say “bring it”…

Those little things in the dish are made of a sort of condensed icing sugar. Bell fell in love as well while Gary had spicy chicken and rice – more brunch than breakfast, but he enjoyed it and washed it down with some amazing hojicha tea. Bert was off in Nara for the day, petting deer and eating burgers. So, at Husband’s request, we headed to Kyoto railway museum. Wake up!

I think we should have borrowed a real child as it was very child-friendly and awash with thousands of children and harassed parents. Husband was in heaven and happily posed for photos besides large trains, and all sorts of stuff that only train buffs would know…

Happily I saw there was a sky deck which promised great views of Kyoto (and also of the trainlines coming into Kyoto station). Bell seemed to become an avid train spotter momentarily, and stood with Husband watching the trains coming in and out. I think it was a passing phase…

I started to flag so excused myself and found the restaurant (which overlooked the trainlines, funny that!) and after a coffee and some chips, was all set for the next level of museum. Husband was in a state – the gift shop was minuscule and didn’t have any grownup stuff. Eventually, he found a proper gift shop but everything was in Japanese. So his desire for a train map showing all the lines and in English was left wanting.

Back to our temple and a final re-pack for Husband. He had decided to spend the night at Kansai airport in a capsule hotel. No, I didn’t understand it either. Off he went with two large suitcases bulging with trainers and haiwaiin shirts, sporting his ‘bowling spirit’ t shirt (well, that’s what the shopkeeper said it meant) for a night in a 7ft x 3ft box. 

Looks like the tv was on…

Me, Bell and Bert headed out to Gion to a place Bell had found by the river. We were presented with the most amazing dinner – 14 courses- by a chef who really was so cool and his mum served us. I can’t remember every dish, but the standouts were yubon – a local dish which is made of skin of soya – presented in an amazing box with charcoal and a teapot with a type of miso in it, and the fish dishes. I was in heaven.

The last photo shows my least favourite – the texture was really unpleasant but the okra were nice.

We waddled home and I fell straight to sleep but I did wonder about how Husband was getting on in his box…

Leaving a hot and humid Tokyo, we successfully negotiated Tokyo station and headed to Kyoto. Arrived in a downpour but found our way to the Shionjin temple where we were staying for one night. I was expecting a tatami mat thin mattress on the floor with very basic amenities. Hadn’t shared these thoughts with Husband, knowing his love of all things luxury and dislike of anything vaguely resembling camping. So it was with slight trepidation that we followed the officious lady to our rooms. 

WOW! We had a huge room with a dividing screen and separate bathroom and toilets! Proper beds! It was stunning. So peaceful – we all whispered for the first hour or so as it felt like were in a temple just being in our rooms. The rain stopped briefly and the sunset was amazing. Being a Sunday night, Bert suggested a ruby, so we headed out to the local Curry house which had been recommended. Was odd eating curry in Japan, but my word it was tasty! The naan breads were enormous! 

It started raining again as we returned to our temple but we dried off pretty quickly. After a great night’s sleep, we woke up to more drizzle and then it bucketed it down every half hour or so. UBert texted to say a typhoon was about to hit, and we had to cross town to our new lodgings. After much planning, we packed our suitcases, which are full to brimming, and headed to the nearest bus stop. At the precise time of expected arrival, a bus pulled up and four wet tourists with enormous bags stepped onto the bus. Luckily it was fairly empty. A few stops later and the bus was full to brimming too. We weren’t 100% sure of which stop we needed, but then google maps and Bella made the decision and it was perfect. Negotiating through thenstanding masses with large cases and very wet clothes was hard but everyone made way for us and even the bus driver was cheerful. He had been giving a running commentary all the way – sounded like Leonard Cohen on a good day – could have recorded him and sold it as an aid to falling asleep. 

Husband was so excited about the bus ride. He had taken video and everything. I was pleased that something had taken his mind off the fact that he was soaked through from head to toe. I think the bus ride was a highlight for him. A shortish walk and we arrived at our second temple lodgings. This was an Airbnb booking and again, I was expecting very little. The lady who owns the temple met us and showed us everything – she was so helpful.

It is a lovely place. Very Japanese – with lots of sliding paper doors (I just can’t stop remembering the Simpsons episode when they go to Japan and Homer walks straight through the paper wall). It’s massive and we have loads of room. There is a kitchen, separate bathroom and toilet. Husband was nervous about putting the hot cup on the wrong table, or breaking a door, claiming clumsiness. With a bit of zen, I reckon he will be fine. 

Once we had had a cup of royal milk tea and changed into dry clothes, we headed for the market. It hadn’t stopped raining since we left the first temple. So going to a covered market seemed the best option rather than staying in the room and driving each other crazy. The market was about 30 minutes by bus – flat fare for all the bus rides of 230 yen, which is good value. We got soaked again walking from the bus stop to the market but it was heaving with people, many Chinese tourists and quite a few Europeans, and with that amount of crowd, we dried off fairly quickly. 

Great market – with lots of food stalls. We had a pancake which had mainly cabbage inside it, with an egg on the top, folded over and smothered in bull dog sauce (bit like daddies but 100% nicer). Delicious!

 

I had to have an ice cream after that and, by chance, the stall not so far away had roasted black sesame ice cream. Yes, I know it sounds a bit weird, looks very grey, but my word, that’s a taste which will linger in my memories for a long time.

Much retail therapy was done. And I mean much. Never before have we spent so long in one shop and bought so much as a family unit. Husband was unstoppable. We need to buy yet another suitcase. In no particular order, we bought five Hawaiian shirts, four kimono jackets, three pairs of trousers, two aprons and a partridge in a pear tree. 

Oh, and in the stall opposite, Husband found another pair of must have trainers…

Two notables from the market were the ceiling and the opportunity to buy some barbecued sparrow. Didn’t try that, by the way.

Having dried off nicely, we headed out into the rain and into the Gion district to catch some glimpses of geishas and to go to a restaurant that Bell had been to last year. We got really soaked again. And I think the geishas had the right idea of staying in. Bell received some emergency alert on her phone in Japanese and we were a little spooked. Unfortunately, the place she wanted to go to was closed but there was a lovely place close by which served great food. Bert had another curry, I had the eel set menu, and husband and Bell had the fish set menu. Everyone received the same text message alerting them to the emergency just as Husband went to the loo – I thought it was an alarm to let everyone know there was someone using the toilet. But the TV was on with live reporting of the typhoon and its devastating effects. 

We got the bus home – was a bit worried that the buses would be suspensed then remembered we were not in England. Happy to fall into a slightly weird mattresses on the floor with towels for sheets….

Wanting to get in the mood for a little temple visiting ahead of the next leg of the tour in Kyoto, we headed out to Sensoji temple in Asakusa, the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo. We joined the other 30 million visitors (annual, but seemed like they had all turned up the same day as us), and walked through an avenue of stalls selling lots of souvenirs. Bert bought a fetching fan…

Just before we went into the temple, we had our fortunes told – which involved shaking a bucket and making a wish, and then a stick fell out with a number on it. Locating the draw with the same number produced a fortune sheet. Bert went first and got the best fortune. I followed and got an average fortune (as did Husband) but poor old Bell got bad fortune. I don’t believe any of it as I am clearly the most fortunate in the world! 

A shaved ice was next on the itinerary but I passed, although the colour was intriguing…

And a few steps further was an ice cream stand with so many flavours I wanted to try, it was hard to choose. I went for sake and chai-tea, Husband went for sweet potato and red bean. I think I had the edge – but check out these flavours – tofu, sesame, roasted tea, green soya bean….

Temple done and time for lunch. Bell found an even better place than Zen in Shimokitazawa called Chabuton – it was fab – best vegetarian meal ramen and vegetarian dumplings. It was a little complicated as you had to buy a ticket first but everything came out Millhouse in the end. 

A brief visit to book store – and we jumped on the train back to Shibuya for some more worshipping at the retail temple. Husband bought another pair of trainers…

And so we headed out for family gala dinner in Ebisu – 11 of us! Yuko had chosen a great place and the food just kept on coming. I didn’t take many photos as I probably had too much beer and plum wine – my second best favourite tipple after sherry. 

It was a really special evening and we made our way home for a final sleep in Tokyo. 

Sporting his new Patricks, Husband was in the mood for more spending so we headed off to the Proteca store. Yes, I didn’t know what it was either. But, according to the expert, they make the best suitcases. My camera did weird things but here he is crossing Shibuya on his way to buy a suitcase…

30 minutes later we were standing outside the Proteca store waiting for it to open…there appeared to be someone in the queue already so we loitered behind him for a bit until the time was 11.03 and Husband strolled past him and entered the hallowed ground. Within minutes, the suitcase had been purchased and the upswell of a fancy-pants cover was successful owing to a mishearing. 

Time to meet up with the cousins and chill out drinking coffee, getting haircuts, and wandering around Harajuku. 

The big Zen question of where we can all eat raised its head and I thought I had found a great place that did beef and yam katsu curry. The queue was long and sweaty and some of us got grumpy. I think the wait time was less than in Sapporo for the Mongolian lamb. And it was definitely worth it. Again, another tiny place with about 8 covers sitting in a line along a bar. But my non-existent Japanese let me down again and Bell was only able to eat rice and cabbage – seems like the yam thing was a squidgy mass of white pulp and not very appetising. However, the beef katsu was very tasty – we had to cook it a little ourselves on individual hot plates. 

As you can see, Husband was very impressed 😂

Back to the hotel and a shower, and Bell suggested we went for beers at a club she had been to last year when she was here. What a great place – again very small and we were the last punters allowed in. In all about 10 of us in the bar, which was stuffed floor to ceiling with albums. Very cool music and three beers later I was very chilled. 

Another great day!

The restaurant which ticked all our dietary requirements was called Zen. How Zen is that! Everyone was happy – Bert had steak while Bella had the largest okonomyaki I have ever seen. 

Thursday (losing track of days so I think that was yesterday) started well and just got better and better. After breakfast, B&B went to the seaside with a friend of Bert’s for the day. Husband was in a very good mood – he loves the Toto washlet system. I have yet to brave it although I pushed a button on the panel hoping it would play music but just got a lot of hot air. We were a little early for our meet time with Michelle, our guide for the day, so we went to a cafe which overlooked Shibuya crossing. Husband again happy as he sat counting the porsches and generally watching cars. This was good for me as I was hoping that my love of looking at food and eating it wouldn’t be too much of a drag for him. 

I had been recommended Culinary Backstreets by the lovely Annie B who put me in contact with Fran Kuzui. I booked the tour easily through the website. We met our local guide, Michelle, at Shibuya station and headed down to the basement of the Tokyu department store – most department stores have food halls in their basements – helps with logistics when delivery van turns up. We started with some very fresh sushi – octopus, tuna, and eel, accompanied by a lot of ginger – it was fantastic. 

Michelle then gave us a tour of the food store. I love supermarkets and this one was probably one of the most interesting and very high end. We saw meat – including wagyu beef, many types of fish, fruit, veg and cakes. Everything looked so fresh. She steered us through all the good bento boxes – provided some ideas for us to take on our train ride on Sunday to Kyoto. 

The stand-out crazy stuff was the gift fruits – square melons, heart- shaped melons, melons that cost 26,000 yen (over £200). Oh, and the plastic fruit, which really confused Husband. Can you spot which are real and which are plastic?

I bought some yuzu juice and saw the actual yuzu fruit – was like a line but Michelle explained they were usually more yellow.

The abundance of food was amazing – some top tips for vegetarians – try the aubergine with miso or fried tofu stuffed with rice…

 

We had lots of free sample tasting as we walked around with Michelle and then we took the train to Kichijoji, a suburb of Tokyo which was just outside the 23km ring around central Tokyo. It immediately felt more of a neighbourhood than a frenetic city. 

Our first stop was at a rice cracker shop – Michelle explained that it was a family shop that had been handed down through the generations and was one of only a very few left that handmade the crackers. We were warmly welcomed by the owners and were even given access to the kitchen where we saw the crackers being baked over a grill, turned frequently to stop them scorching, then when dried, plunged into soy sauce and then placed in wooden boxes in a drying cupboard. We weren’t allowed to take photos in the kitchen but we were photographed with the owner and her daughter. I was like a kid in sweet shop. I have never tasted such good rice crackers. Husband was very swift and sure in his choices, taking advice from the owners on what to buy. I was a little more dithery – but ended up with four packets of assorted loveliness. I hope I can save them until I get to England but no promises!

Michelle was really knowledgeable and a very good raconteur – she took us on to a little place where we were served fugue! I was so excited. It was served with daishin, spring onions and miso soup – and we are still alive to tell the tale 🙂 it was accompanied by a cup of sake too!

We continued waking around the streets, stopping off here and there. It really felt like a lovey place to live – maybe like Richmond or Kew, with less green. 

We then met Miso man – who was a fantastic character. Michelle explained his story  – among other things, he was learning to ballroom dance. His English was very good and he was very funny. He makes miso – we tried 8 different types – some made with barley, some soya, some mixed. We then were able to choose which one we liked best and he made it into miso soup. Fantastic! More snacks followed – including some pork which had been marinated in red wine and miso, and some walnuts that had been fried in a syrup and miso – had to buy some of that to take home (may not get home though…)

A fab visit and somewhere few tourists will know about. That’s why I love going local with a guide. 

Next stop was a wagyu beef ‘patty’. There was a long line, as Michelle explained they only sold their patties freshly cooked, so while she queued, we wandered into a tea shop (bought some more matcha tea) and a kitchen shop (bought two bowls and some lovely plates). We then ate our meatballs standing by the side of the road – wow, they were delicious. 

As we wandered along, Husband spotted a Patrick trainer shop and his eyes, which had been closing through jet lag (obviously) lit up and we made a diversion from food talk to trainer talk. He tried on a pair and was hooked. The guy in the shop was very helpful, spraying the new shoes with waterproof stuff, and everyone was happy. 

We then made our way to a great street bar which specialised in chicken yakitori. We were able to stand with the locals – and had some beer with our delicious chicken wings. Gizzards and other chicken bits were also available but not really my thing! 

For pudding (!), Michelle took us to an older part of town which consisted of little alleyways and small shops. We had a red bean curd fish cake – cake as in a waffle-type not potato. My experience of red bean anything wasn’t great so was cautious when I bit into eat – but I think my taste buds have matured considerably and I thought it was delcious. The moulds used by the baker were on display, with their own special Buddha!

Our final stop was in a bar where I had some sake and Husband had more beer.  We took the train back to Shibuya and within minutes of hitting the pillow, Husband was out cold. I struggled to stay awake just to say hi to the kids and then fell into a very deep sleep. What a fab day! Thanks to Michelle and the great team at Culinary Backstreets!

A last minute dash around Hakodate to see the Northern People’s museum and another Lucky Pierrot for Bert, and we boarded the train back to Tokyo. The museum was great – so fantastic pictures and clothes on display. Would like to know more about the Ainu.

We left a sunny and warm seaside town and arrived in a hot, sweaty city in the rain. We found the hotel and located the rooms. Husband was very confused when I knocked on the door and started speaking in Japanese when he opened it. He needed to sleep as he hadn’t slept on plane – and Bell was also napping so me and Bert went for chicken yakitori dinner. Delicious! 

By the time we got back, Bell was awake so we headed out for a walk about. Husband was still sleeping. 

The next morning, I think there was an earthquake as the ground seemed to move a bit. But I can’t be 100% sure. Husband finally woke up around the same time. The hotel has continental breakfast so it was weird not to be served a 15-course taster menu with unidentifiables – and the croissants tasted great! 

Husband and I went off to the fish market to do a short tour – was interesting to see all the guys hard at work, cutting up frozen tuna, and the fish looked so fresh. 

We even saw some wasabi – had no idea what it looked like in its natural state….

Some good tastings were offered in the outside market – including octopus kebab which Husband bravely tried….and gave the thumbs up (despite his face looking a bit dubious). We finished off with some amazing rice cakes – truly scrumptious!

Meeting back up with B&B we headed off for lunch although didn’t order anything was so full after food tour. We then wandered around for a few hours looking in shops but bought very little. Bert went off for a Virtual Reality experience, Bell bought up the whole of Muji and I helped Husband not buy expensive pajamas. 

The newly arrived are now out for the count so I will have to raise them from their slumber otherwise they will be away most of the night. We are heading off to Golden Gai tonight and then for dinner. Do you realise how difficult it is to find a restaurant in Tokyo that caters for a card-carrying shellfish avoider and a vegetarian. Any help would be much appreciated! 

After another large breakfast, we set off on the long journey back to Hakodate. (A prize awaits anyone who can identify all the separate dishes…)

Nine hours later, we arrived. Frequent pit stops kept us sane and the weather turned from driving rain to lovely sunshine. We picked up some interesting snacks along the way, including some white- chocolate covered crisps. Believe me, they tasted fab. I think it’s a winning combination!

‘By breaking down old customs and producing consistently original items, we are pursuing a new level in chocolate enjoyment’. Enough said!

Arriving in Hakodate, we headed to Bert’s favourite restaurant, Lucky Pierrot, where he ate two burgers and some chips, and bought the t shirt. 😂. 

I dropped Bert and all the luggage at our hotel – the ocean onsen we stayed at when we arrived in Hakodate, and returned the trusty Nissan Wingroad to the rental company. Despite its lack of power, it was a good reliable car and fuel efficient too. A taxi back to the onsen and a lovely soak in the hot springs, looking out over the ocean, followed by a few beers and a bowl of ramen, and my day was complete. 

My gorgeous daughter and my lovely Husband have met up at Schipol airport and are flying out to meet us in Tokyo tomorrow. How much more happiness is there in the world!! 

Quick update on our delicious supper! 

Everything was delicious and everything was recognisable! Stand out dishes for me were the salt grilled ocean perch, the miso-grilled eggplant and the buckwheat flavoured pudding. Will miss these 11-course dinners! Washed down with two glasses of Sapporo classic.