First ride on a bullet train: UBert got up extra early to come to our hotel and take us to Tokyo station, steering us to the right platform. What a man! We found the kiosk with the bento boxes – I took a while deciding – there was one shaped like a bullet train and a Pokemon one, but I reckoned they were for real kids. A man in the kiosk reached straight for the smoked eel one so I reckoned that would be a good one. Bert waved his card at the cashier and was given a vegetable box.
The platform was very organised with queuing lines for each train marked on the floor and the number of the car very visible. There were train cleaners dressed in Hawaiian shirts, with dainty hats supporting a brightly coloured flower, who bowed the train’s arrival and then jumped on the train and cleaned it. Southwest trains could learn a lot. The train left dead on time. To the second. No announcements apologising for running late, explaining the delay due to a driver not bothering to turn up, or another train’s fault. Was so refreshing.
So despite it being only 8.30am, we tucked into our bento boxes. I think I won the best box choice (although you could say Bert didn’t really choose his, it chose him). Mine was delicious. Bert’s was colourful but much was unidentifiable. The trolley arrived within minutes of us leaving and I bought a much needed coffee. Was less pricey than Southwest trains and infinitely more tasty. The early morning wakefulness caught up with us and I dozed a little while we sped through Tokyo and the burbs. An hour later we saw more green and the clouds cleared and we saw a blue sky.
First time driving in Japan: Four hours and 525 miles later, we pulled into Hakodate shinsen station – a beautiful and very new building. We booked our train back and then set off to the Nissan car hire shop. A short wait and an upgrade (from what to what I couldn’t tell you), and I was pulling out into the highway in Japan. The Nissan lady had put the satnav into English but we couldn’t work out how to input the hotel address so google maps stepped in and, with a couple of odd diversions, we arrived at our hotel. It’s great that they drive on the left and also that they drive very slowly. Husband would be off the scale in terms of frustration.
First onsen hotel: We parked in front of the hotel and were met immediately by two doormen who wanted to wrestle the keys off me straight away. Maybe it was the fancy car I was driving 😂 Bert disappeared for his obligatory fag break and I went in to check in. First they said I was too early but then they seemed to carry on booking is in. Shoes were removed and much bowing ensued. We were ushered into a waiting room in which there was half a tree trunk cut and made into a table. Green tea and some delicious cakes were beautifully presented and scoffed quickly.
We were shown to our room. OMG. It is jaw-droppingly gorgeous. A large picture window looking out over the ocean and a great futon bed with sleep-inducing duvets.
Looking forward to opening up the green ladies’ box in the bathroom – wonder what treasures lie inside! We headed out to grab some lunch. Bert was hoping for something other than ramen or sushi (his fear of a daal baht situation clearly at the forefront of his mind – we spent a week trekking off the beaten track, out of season, in eastern Nepal and ate daal baht every night). Unfortunately, the only place recommended close by was famous for its ramen. Poor Bert. I promise we won’t be eating ramen tonight. It was a great little cafe – felt like a greasy spoon but without the grease or any spoons… and the food was much better. I had egg with rice and Bert, having produced his magic card, was shown pictures of blurry chicken and egg – so he plumped for that one. We also shared some dumplings which were said to be chicken but I felt were more pork.
First onsen: heading back to the hotel, we decided to brave the onsen. We read as much as we could about how to behave correctly. Then headed down in our clothes. We parted at the entrance – ladies bathe separately to men – and arranged to meet after. I walked in hoping to see some clues of what to do where and when but it was empty. I removed my clothes and tried to find a shower – there was a set of cubicles with seats and buckets with shower attachments – so I guessed that was how I was meant to shower. I then stepped into the onsen – it was so hot that I stepped quickly out and headed to the one outside which was a bit cooler. Was a bit weird being all alone and naked in a hot bath outside overlooking the ocean but in a good way. I didn’t stay long and did the shower thing in reverse. I found an area with hairdriers and loads of different lotions. Wasn’t sure which lotion went where so applied a few of them in separate parts of my body…let’s see how it feels later!
We are off to town – both struggling to stay awake. Hope to take the rope way (cable car) up the peak to watch the town twinkle tonight. There is a squid dance here next week when 10,000 people flap their arms in a squid-like fashion while dancing through the streets… it’s that kind of place.
See you later!
Snoo's kitchen 