Seville and other stories

Just been to Seville. My second trip. First time round it poured with rain – not what we were expecting at all. All the memories of that trip are blurry and a little surreal. Was chatting with one of the guys we went with and asked if she remembered the boat trip – and she couldn’t. We could both remember dashing out from the doorway of a museum which was closed as it was Monday and seeking shelter in a grotty cafe. Husbant remembers going to see Real Betis play in the rain and he remembered some tiny restaurant I dragged everyone to in the middle of a housing estate that had formica tables. But luckily he remembers the food was really good.

So no pressure, Seville, this time you had to be sunny. We arrived just as it started to rain. Husbant did the “I don’t believe it” refrain and believed we were cursed. But, it was a passing shower and the sun came out a good 20 minutes later. It stayed sunny most of the time too. As I have written before, the first day of the holiday is usually not without a drama. This time it was Keygate. Naming no names, but we ended up locked out of the apartment. Working on plan B, the girls went in search of a local bar to have some sherry while the men sorted the doors/keys. By the time we were all reunited, I was speaking fluent Spanish. It’s amazing how much your confidence grows after a few glasses of fino.

Food tours are great. I usually book the food tour within minutes of booking the flights and the airbnb. This time was no different. But I had forgotten that I had booked a food tour. On the plane I saw an email that had popped in saying how much the Spanish Sherpas were looking forward to meeting up the next day. As Husbant would say “Say What Now”?! We had also booked the Alcazar, Cathedral, flamenco show and dinner on the same day. Luckily, I was able to move it forward.

One of the best things about a food tour is the other attendees. The Seville gang produced some beauties. An Australian couple from Perth who had been travelling around Europe for a few weeks and were planning a trip to Scotland next year to trace ancestral ties, a couple of women from the UK who seemed vaguely famous and were dripping in gold rolexes (cleverly hidden by scarves wrapped around wrists – so much so that I thought one of them had actually broken their wrist), a grandad and grandson from the US – the grandad was full of stories and loved his wife very much “a wonnerful woman”; and a young American couple who seemed only to want to talk with their fellow Americans. The best bit for Husbant was the final stop – which was lunch at the Betis supporters club (sadly that day he wasn’t wearing his Betis cap).

Some highlights if you plan to visit include a lovely restaurant called La Casa de Maria right on the river in Triana, Casa Rafel in Los Remedios, Seville cathedral is awesome (Husbant finally got to meet his nemesis) but also visit the Iglesia de El Salvador which makes your jaw drop (and there’s a lovely bar opposite that does great pork montaditos which we washed down with ice cold Cruzcampo). The bullring is amazing – I know it’s controversial but I seem to absorb the excitement which appears to exude from the seats and the sand. I guess this comes from reading Hemingway’s ‘The Sun Also Rises’ which I loved.

St Christopher, Iglesia de El Salvador
Christopher Columbus is inside

I also learnt a new Spanish word. Chupón.

It was a perfect break. Husbant bought a new hat and I got some new shoes. We finally persuaded our friend to get a man bag and some Birkenstocks. And not to be left out, my partner in sherry crime got some Spanish pyjamas, a bracelet and a new bag. And my suitcase was filled with lots of goodies to make the party last longer at home.

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Snoo

Cooking and walking, reading recipe books and studying maps, eating food and climbing mountains.

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