Was hoping that a white-gloved someone would come out and fill my car up for me at the petrol station but I guess I chose a self-service petrol station. Had to move the car around as the petrol cap was on the other side – and had to guess how much petrol it needed before I could fill up – but it all went smoothly in the end and we were on our way to the mountains via the lavender/poppy fields. I know I have said this before, but the Japanese drive very slowly. Even Bert, who has only had 4 driving lessons, remarked on the snail’s pace. But, without the need to rush anywhere, it is quite therapeutic – I just hope I don’t bring this habit back to Godalming as I am sure to be hooted at.
The scenery changed very quickly after turning off the toll road and the forests were lovely. Very alpine. We took a break beside a lake which had an abandoned cafe and a large T Rex statue…




Onward to Furano – belly button festival town and home to all things lavender. There was a food festival going on when we arrived, a kid’s talent show and an enormous tummy button bouncy castle. Best of all I found a bakery which had cakes galore. We filled up on some delicacies – looking at the photos, I wish I had bought some more!
This little cake (above) was amaze balls!
We saw the gorgeous fields of lavender as we headed on through Biei although I think we missed the best. We stopped for lavender ice cream at lavender-land and I bought a few lavender-themed gifts 🙂

An hour later we arrived at our onsen in the mountains. This place is superb – the onsen is fab and we have just had a tasting menu that rivals many I have had in London. With a bottle of Furano white wine (not lavender flavoured), it’s time for bed.











Stupendous trip, obvs, but it does raise some key questions. Did you see any Ainu people?? How do you know which cakes to eat? Has Bertie managed to eat anything since that ma-hoosive burger? Will I be given a spoon as soon as I enter any eating place? (I’ve been practising Chopsticks really hard!) And why do they drive so slowly?
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Good questions. We have seen video of Ainu people but bypassed the ‘village’ as weren’t sure of the authenticity. All cake should be eaten
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Apologies – fat fingers. All cakes should be eaten, some may not be finished. Bert has been eating very well – trying most things and flashing his allergy card. For instance, the menu last night was mainly shellfish, but we reckon he got some Kobe beef instead – it was the softest beef I have ever tasted. You can eat with knife and fork, or spoon but very happy to hear you have been practising (verified by Duchess of Binscombe). On your last question, it still beats me!! Some of these roads are very straight and, despite driving a sewing machine (thank goodness for the free upgrade) I was able to overtake someone. But overtaking is not a thing…
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